![]() Unmolded and wobbling back and forth like newborns, I had the same question as Julia Child. With only a couple of minutes left, they started to emerge and I breathed a sigh of relief. The batter had spread evenly to fill the shells but there were no humps in sight. Rested, scooped and baking, they were at the halfway point when I started to get nervous. As they were baking, I could imagine whipping up a batch on a dessert island (provided it was stocked with unbleached, all-purposed flour as well). Her husband, Paul, believed early cooks used cockle shells and they tested it with ribbed scallop shells that worked. I could have even done without the specialized Madeleine pans with the shell-shaped depressions. Limiting myself to a mixing bowl and wooden spoon was oddly liberating, a reminder that modern conveniences aren’t always convenient. Julia Child had seen the electric mixer and the beaters, if they were called for, she would have told us. I’d made them once before and tried to adapt them to my Kitchen Aid mixer, an unnecessary step. After featuring Madeleines à la génoise on her show, she responded to a viewers desire to see the heavier Madeleines, with the hump in the middle, made famous by the bakers of Commercy (and of course Marcel Proust) with this recipe.īased on Pierre Lacam’s Le Nouveau Mémorial de la Pâtisserie et des Glaces, the batter rests for an hour to allow the butter to congeal so that the hump will form during baking. Well before Madeleines were readily available, wrapped in plastic and holding their breath at any given Starbucks, she was trying to find her own way back to the perfect Proustian Madeleine, part cake, part cookie and made to crumble in tea. This recipe is everything I love about Julia Child (I’m sorry but I just can’t call her Julia). When the Cooking Channel invited bloggers to celebrate her upcoming birthday by posting about one of her recipes, I knew which one I wanted to make. Just before my last birthday, I found a second-hand copy of From Julia Child’s Kitchen that included this recipe for les Madeleines de Commercy. Once you’ve started, you’ll do anything to keep her there, so I’m always on the look-out for Julia Child cookbooks. From the first moment, you can feel her peering over your shoulder – self-assured, encouraging, generous. It’s impossible to cook a Julia Child recipe without summoning her in some way.
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